Matt operates the website A Happy Dog

http://www.ahappydog.com

Joseph M. Sabol is a world class Doberman breeder. Please go to http://petvitamins4u.com or to http://theroadhousedobes.com for further information

These instructions first appeared on the Doghousbreaking Yahoo Group.

Aidan Bindoff is Editor of http://www.PositivePetzine.com, your helpful online resource for positive dog training and behavior information.

Get some great virtual puppy games at the author’s virtual pet website by clicking here.

When your puppy is very young, 8-12 weeks old, you will need to feed it four times a day. You can taper your puppy’s feeding schedule gradually as it gets older. Puppies three to six months old require three meals a day. Twice a day feeding is optimal for puppies six months to one year old. After your dog celebrates its first birthday, the feeding schedule should diminish to one meal a day. For larger canines and dogs susceptible to bloating, you can feed them two smaller meals a day. The food you feed your dog or puppy should be premium dry food for a well balanced diet.

This may be combined with canned dog food, water or broth. Some dogs like a treat of people food to accompany their daily cuisine such as cooked eggs, fruits, cottage cheese and vegetables. Go easy on the people food with puppies as it can result in vitamin deficiencies, teeth and bone problems, obesity, picky eating habits and annoying table manners such as begging while owners are having dinner! You must always make sure your pup or dog has lots of clean water and wash your dog’s food and water bowls regularly.

Puppies’ nutritional needs are different than their adult dog counterparts. Choosing a puppy food that has good nutrition balance will ensure that your pup is getting the right amount of protein, calcium and the correct amount of calories. You should always check labels of dog and puppy food before buying and confirm that the first ingredient is meat and not meat by-products. When your puppy begins teething this may affect its eating habits and your puppy may not have much of an appetite. Don’t panic, this is normal. Check with your veterinarian regarding breed types and feeding habits, some larger breeds require puppy food up to year two or when they have reached full maturity for nutritional reasons.

Your puppy will have a healthier and stronger digestive system and will not suffer maladies like upset stomach or diarrhea if you feed it the same food every day. Puppies’ systems don’t adjust well to change and it’s a good idea to stick to the same schedule of feeding time on a daily basis. Even though your little loyal companion will look at you with sad and hungry puppy eyes, do your best not to give in and overfeed it. As your puppy grows, you will change its food to a new brand or flavor type. Doing this gradually by mixing some of the old food with the new food until you have transitioned your puppy over will help it adjust to the digestive changes that result from this change.

It is normal for puppies to experience some stomach upset problems and this is no cause for alarm if the symptoms go away within a day or two. Your puppy’s appetite will change as it grows and it is a good idea to monitor the changes you see with your puppy. Contact your veterinarian if upset stomach or diarrhea occurs for a longer amount of time.

By: Dr. Mark Clayson

About the Author:

Fetal Development

Sometimes picking out the perfect puppy from a litter can be overwhelming, after all, they’re all so adorable! But our decision should be based on more than which one has the cutest ears or the best coloring. Here are five simple tips to help make puppy picking a snap.

1) Do your research! Make sure you know the right breed that fits with your family and lifestyle. For instance, if you love a meticulously clean house, a dog that doesn’t shed might be what you need. Or if you’re looking for a breed that will interact peacefully with the pet Macaw and two cats you already own, a hunting dog or hound would not be wise. If you’re not sure which breed is best for you, don’t jump on the dog owner band wagon just yet. Take a look at my “Top Ten Family Dogs” article (linked at the bottom of this page) or scour the internet–there are many websites offering extensive breed characteristics.

2) Don’t go by looks alone. Of course you should pick a pup that you find irresistibly adorable, but after you’ve done your research you may find that while Vizslas are gorgeous, their unceasing energy might be too much for you, or while you love the athletic, lean look of the Boxer, you might not find their constant drooling or jumping very appealing. Try to avoid labs or golden retrievers which are being over-bred due to popularity and high demand. I encourage every potential dog owner to branch out and consider breeds that they’ve snubbed in the past. The Boston Terrier is a remarkable breed that many people pass over because they think them ugly–don’t pass up a chance for a potentially incredible companion because of your own vanity. Remember Benji? The scraggly mutt with the gnarled tooth? He was scheduled to be euthanized because customers at the shelter kept passing him by. Luckily, a dog trainer took the time to notice his wits and saved him from that fate. He turned out to be one of the most intelligent dogs of all time!

3) Decide whether you want a submissive or dominant dog. Submissive dogs are the most obedient, easiest to train, and are fiercely loyal but they are also very dependent, sometimes not very social, and do not like to be left alone. Dominant dogs are the most outgoing, energetic, and social but they are also very difficult to train, are usually the ones going through the trash cans and tearing up shoes, and will love to jump all over your guests and never bat an eye when you yell, “No!” You need to decide because you will never have a dog that is both submissive and dominant–each puppy in the litter is either one or the other. If you decide you want to take your chances with a dominant dog (and I applaud you because they take a lot of work), determining which puppy is dominant is super easy. He’s the one that runs up to you without thinking twice, wags his tail so hard it might fly off, and can’t seem to stop licking you, making you feel like the most important person in the world. The submissive dog, however, will act like you don’t exist. While the dominant dogs are distracting you, she might take this opportunity to snag some kibble from the food bowl because she’s sharp as a tack. Size isn’t always a give away although occasionally the most submissive dogs are the smallest because they are easily pushed out of the way during meal times. But if all the puppies come running to you, there is another trick to tell if they are dominant or not. Take each puppy onto your lap and lay them on their backs. If a puppy struggles with you, he is dominant. If a puppy lays nicely on her back, then she is submissive.

4) Leave the kids at home. As much as we want to, it’s not a good idea to let our kids pick out the puppy. They will fall in love with anything that licks their cheeks or falls to sleep in their arms. When we pick out a lifetime companion based on these criteria alone, that dog will most likely end up at the Humane Society within a month or two. If you can, go to pick out the puppy without the kids. They really don’t need to be there during the decision making–believe me, receiving the puppy will be exciting enough!

5) Meet the parents. Never meet the puppies first! If you do, you’ll ultimately fall in love with a puppy that may not be right for you. It’s hard to say no to those cute puppy eyes once you’ve seen them. Also, never buy a puppy over the internet from a photo or from a breeder who doesn’t have the parents on the premises. And meeting only one of the parents isn’t good enough. One of the breeders I knew bred an amazing, sweet tempered, loving black lab female with the most rambunctious and hyper black lab male I had ever known. He was so misbehaved that the breeder rarely ever let him out of his kennel because he was too strong and overactive to take for a walk on a leash. When a prospective customer asked to meet their litter’s parents, the breeder would only bring the sweet mother out, thus selling her pups in a heartbeat. Unfortunately, someone very dear to me ended up buying one of the puppies from that litter and she grew up to be just as unruly and hard to train as her father. Hardly any traits of her docile, submissive mother can be seen. So when you set up an appointment to meet the parents, make sure both parents are there. Even if the breeder does not own both male and female (perhaps the breeder borrowed another breeder’s male–this happens a lot with show dogs), it can always be arranged for the male to be at the appointment so you can meet him too. If a breeder acts like this is a silly or far fetched request, move on! There are many more trustworthy and accommodating breeders out there.

When you meet the parents, make sure you like them both. I loved both of my cockapoo’s parents. His mother was the sweetest Cocker Spaniel who was happy just to lay at my feet and look up at me with these eyes that said, “Just pet me once in a while and I’m yours till the end!” His father was a feisty toy poodle who would play fetch for hours but rolled over immediately for a tummy rub when you pet him. I knew they made a perfect match and that my puppy would have great traits. Boy was I right! Everyone that meets my dog is envious in one form or another. He’s even turned my husband into a dog lover–something I never thought would happen! So play with the parents and if you enjoy both of them, then take the next step and ask to see the litter.

If you’re adopting a dog from a shelter where the parents’ histories are non-existent, you can still follow steps 1-4 and have a greater chance at picking the perfect pet. Spend some time with the dog–most shelters have special rooms where you can play with the dog one-on-one. You’ll be amazed at what traits you can discover from just ten minutes of play time. For instance, you can learn whether or not the dog licks or barks too much, whether or not they pee on the floor when they meet new people, if they have a tendency to nip or jump, etc. Sometimes adopting an older dog can be the best fit for your family. Most of the time they are already house-broken, walk on a leash, and know a few basic commands. They are also ready and waiting for a family to welcome them home and have an abundance of love to give.

Whichever dog you choose, please understand that he or she will be a lasting commitment. Dogs are not like any other pets–they need consistent and constant training and companionship. If you’re looking for an easy to maintain pet that you can leave alone for hours and hours each day, consider a cat or kitten. They are less expensive to feed, you don’t have to research a breed or meet the litter’s parents, and they are just as lovable and entertaining in a home atmosphere as dogs. If a cat is out of the question, consider purchasing or adopting two dogs or two litter mates. They’ll be happier left at home with a brother or sister to keep them company.

I hope these tips help you on your path to picking the perfect pup.

By: Mandy K.

About the Author:

Civil Lawyer

The Basset Hound is believed to have developed from a “curiosity” in the sixteenth century. Apparently a mutation developed in the litters of stag hounds in France in which puppies were born with short legs. (The French word “baset” means “low-set”. ) These mutated puppies were bred together and the short, long bodied Basset Hound was born. The breed was introduced into Great Britain in the late 1800s and immediately became a favorite of Queen Alexandra’s court. By 1886 there were more than 100 Bassets entered at a London Dog Show. In 1892 Sir Everett Millais, considered to be one of the main “founding fathers” of the breed in Britain, introduced the Bloodhound into the breeding, in part to guarantee against the inherent dangers which can be present in a small gene pool.

The Baset Hound remained popular in Great Britain for many years and was used regularly in packs of hounds which hunted hare. However world War I took its toll and the dogs became scarce. In 1921 the official Basset Hound Club closed its doors for lack of membership. The breed nearly became extinct but a small group of devotees managed to continue the lines and the Basset Hound club was re-established by 1954. The numbers represented today in the American Kennel Club demonstrate that now the Baset Hound enjoys a large popular following in the United States. Much of this popularity is no doubt due to the use of the Basset as a “poster dog” for the “Hush Puppy” shoe advertising campaign.

The Basset Hound is a long and low to the ground breed, with a heavy boned and quite solid appearance. His chest is deep and broad, nearly touching the ground. His long ears and deep muzzle resemble in some respects the head of the Bloodhound and he is well known for having very nearly the same abilities of scent that the Bloodhound does. He has a short dense coat which is easily kept and can be of any recognized hound coloration. His front legs are definitely bowed or crooked and he is quite short, his legs being often less than one third of his total height at the shoulder. He may have a tendency to back problems and this should be watched. Also this is a breed that will easily become obese if not kept well exercised and fed a proper diet.

The Basset Hound is first and foremost a scent hound and performs this function very well, having a large nasal capacity and long ears which serve to sweep the scent into his nostrils as he moves. Because of his hound instincts, he is not necessarily an easy dog to train, for often his nose will distract him from other activities his owner may wish him to perform. He is generally placid, but stubborn-ness is one of his traits also. Like many dogs of the hound persuasion, he has a melodious baying tone when he vocalizes. He is a dog that should be trained early to come when called, as he can easily get carried away and follow his nose to wherever it takes him.

By: Michael Russell

About the Author:

Eliminate Phone Bills

Many people feel that using an indoor kennel crate for their puppy is somehow cruel. Nothing could be further from the truth. When used properly, a crate can be one of the most valuable tools for training and maintaining your new puppy.

Dogs naturally love den-like enclosures and an indoor kennel crate will satisfy this desire. Dogs are also naturally reluctant to soil where they sleep so crating is an extremely effective housebreaking tool. Crating can keep a puppy away from potentially dangerous household items and can be moved from room to room whenever necessary.

Crating can help to ease separation anxiety and prevent destructive behaviour when you cannot physically supervise your puppy. When you have to leave your puppy alone or when you go to bed at night, you can rest assure that your puppy is not only safe, but he is also not chewing your furniture, electrical wires, rugs and so on.

It is very important that you introduce the crate to your puppy as a safe place to rest in. You should therefore never use the crate as a form of punishment. Your puppy should associate his crate with security, comfort and enjoyment. There are quite a few things that you can do to foster these positive feelings about the crate in your dog.

Drop pieces of food such as kibble or special treats in your puppy’s crate throughout the day. As your puppy discovers these treats it will reinforce the notion that the crate is a positive place. Along the same principle you can also feed your puppy in his crate.

When you first introduce your puppy to his crate, praise and fondle him when he goes inside. Make a game of it by including rewarding him with treats when he enters. Never attempt to force your dog into his crate. However, at night when going to bed you may have to place your puppy inside and then shut the door. It is recommended that you place the crate near to your bed to reduce your puppy’s anxiety at night. Dogs are pack animals and do not like to sleep alone.

It is an excellent idea to begin crating your puppy for short periods of time while you are home with him. This will prevent your puppy from making the negative association that going into his crate means that you will be leaving him alone.

It is important to allow your dog the opportunity to fully eliminate before he goes into his crate. Young puppies have very little bladder and sphincter control so you should not crate your pet for extended periods of time. Puppies under 4 months of age should not be crated more than 3 hours. Except for overnight, puppies and dogs should not be crated for more than 5 hours at a time.

Always remove your dogs’ collar before crating. Ensure that your crate is the proper size. If it is too big, your puppy may eliminate in one end of the crate and sleep in the other. If this occurs you may have to block off a section of the crate to discourage this behaviour.

Many dogs who are properly introduced to crating at a young age grow to like their crate as their place to rest and get away from it all. This is ideal for owners because you can then use your crate when travelling or visiting and not have to worry about your dog. He has his safe, secure place to go.

By: Michael Russell

About the Author:

Get Mortgage

Choosing to raise a Chihuahua puppy is a big decision, which shouldn’t be taken lightly. Just like all the other dog breeds, Chihuahua puppies will need to be carefully watched and taken care of, however they are much smaller and fragile than other breeds, and this means they will need special attention.

The most important part of raising a Chihuahua puppy is to give them a safe living environment. This means you should never let your puppy roam free around the house, especially if you have small children or larger dogs who could potentially injure them. You should keep your puppy in a confined area with their food and water separate from any other dogs.

Many first-time Chihuahua owners don’t realize the importance of socializing their puppy. This should be done early, when they are still a puppy, to help them grow up to be less aggressive towards other people and animals. You can socialize your puppy by taking them over to a friends house, walking them through the neighborhood, or just going to the pet store. Doing so will allow them to become more comfortable around others.

You should start potty-training your Chihuahua when they are still a puppy. You can do this by taking them out often and giving them a treat when they potty outside. Chihuahuas respond well to positive reinforcement and will learn quickly if you show them affection when they are good. Remember to never physically hit or hurt your Chihuahua. Not only can you injure their fragile bodies, but it can have a negative affect and may cause them to not learn. If your Chihuahua has an accident indoors (which they probably will), all you need to do is to say “Bad”. Keeping your puppy confined to a crate during the night will also help prevent accidents.

All puppies need to take regularly scheduled visits to the Veterinarian to get their shots. You should call your Veterinarian and schedule an appointment immediately after you get your puppy. The vaccines are important for keeping them safe from deadly diseases, such as the common Parvo.

Chihuahua puppies are small, and unfortunately this means they can be prey in the eyes of a hovering hawk. You should never let your puppy go outside without someone watching over them. This might seem far-fetched to some people, but I have heard of it happening on more than one occasion.

Raising a Chihuahua puppy takes a lot of hard work and dedication. However, you will have many joyful memories raising them and watching them grow up before your eyes. Just remember to take care of your puppy and give them the best life you can.

By: Joshua McNiel

About the Author:

The DUI Lawyer

The California Puppy Lemon Law, despite the rather specific name, is not limited to small dogs alone. It covers cats as well as dogs, and there are no age-related parameters. The California Puppy Lemon Law basically pertains to the California Health and Safety Code. It specifically concerns itself with a cat or dog’s health at the time of purchase.

In essence, California Codes Health And Safety Code Section 122125-122220 defines the term ‘pet dealer’ of cats and dogs. Section 122125 states that this is a person who sells animals on a retail basis. It also states that a dealer requires an official permit for such a business. Further sections define that a ‘purchaser’ is any person who buys a pet from a dealer without intending to resell it.

A dealer is required to ensure that healthy animals are kept separately from those that are sick. In other words, there should be no doubt in a purchaser’s mind that the pet purchased is healthy.

The California Puppy Lemon Law further states that a seller must make a purchaser aware of the benefits of neutering and spaying pets. The purchaser must be given written material supporting this. The dealer should additionally offer incentives for such procedures.

Further, the dealer must give documentation of every animal’s heritage - the name and address of the breeder or broker. The purchaser must also be given the animal’s date of birth and a vaccination/immunization/surgical record. The buyer is also supposed to receive a clear statement of any disease that the animal is suffering from at the time of purchase.

Under California Puppy Lemon Law, the dealer is legally liable if:

o The dealer has failed to maintain the specified health standards.

o A licensed veterinarian states in writing that the animal fell sick within 15 days of purchase.

o A licensed veterinarian states in writing within a year of purchase that the animal has a congenital or hereditary disease that requires extensive hospitalization, and from which recovery is doubtful.

By: Richard Romando

About the Author:

Copyright Lawyer

Puppy Care

Puppy care can be a lot of work, but is also quite rewarding. This article should answer a lot of your questions you might have about your new puppy, or the puppy you are thinking about getting. Here we cover the basics you need to know.

Feeding

Most people will have received their puppy after they are weaned. But if you actually need to wean your puppy, starting at about 2-3 weeks of age your puppy should start to eat solid food. Offer the puppies solid food at least three times a day. You can start by offering dry puppy food mixed with some warm water to soften it.

When the puppy reaches about 12 weeks of age, slowly start feeding dry puppy food only twice a day. Only offer the food for about 15 minutes and then take the dish away, to train the dog for eating twice a day. Between 6-9 months of age start mixing puppy food with an adult dog food over the course of a month.

The dry food should be specially formulated for puppies. If you have a large breed puppy feed a large breed formula. But be careful not to over feed large breed dogs. If you do they are more prone to joint and bone problems. Also stay away from a lot of extra treats, and be careful not to over feed your puppy over 6 months of age to prevent obesity.

Vaccines

Vaccinating your puppy is the basis of good puppy care. Vaccines help reduce the risk of you puppy acquiring diseases like parvovirus, distemper, kennel cough, and rabies. Vaccines are given when puppies reach 6-8 weeks of age and are given every 2-4 weeks until the puppy reaches 16-20 weeks of age. Boosters are then needed every one to three years. There are many different vaccine schedules your veterinarian might use. For example you puppy might receive shots at the following ages: 6, 9, 12, and 15 weeks of age.

Puppies are usually vaccinated against: Distemper, Adenovirus (hepatitis), Parvovirus, and Parainfluenza. All of these vaccines are usually combined in one vaccine typically referred to as “the distemper shot.” Also depending on where you live, you may also need vaccines against Coronavirus, Giardia, Lyme disease, Leptospirosis, and Bordetella. Also Rabies is needed as well. Usually at sixteen weeks of age, and then boostered a year later, and then boostered one to three years later depending on the local laws and regulations. Rabies vaccine is the only vaccine that you must absolutely get for your dog. Only a veterinarian is licensed to administer rabies vaccine.

Parasites

1. Heartworm prevention
Most puppies should be started on a heartworm preventative at least by two months of age. And now in most areas of the United States, it is recommended that heartworm preventative be given all year long, although the risk of getting heartworms is still greatest in the summer months.

Heartworm preventative is usually given monthly in the form of a chewable tablet. The most popular brands are Heartgard and Interceptor. It is important the you give this tablet every month and if you miss a month, to tell your veterinarian.

2. Intestinal Parasites (Worms)
It is important that you get your puppy dewormed. Roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, coccidian, and giardia are the most common parasites that can affect your puppy. It is recommended that you have a fecal done on your pet, and then yearly after that.

Deworming medication is commonly placed in heartworm medication these days, these include Heartgard plus and Interceptor. Intestinal parasites can cause diarrhea, weight loss, and death. Tapeworms often found around the anus of your puppy. They look like grains of white rice. These are the egg filled segments of the tapeworm.

3. Fleas and Ticks
Most flea products these days are also effective against ticks as well as fleas. The most popular of these is Frontline. It is a medication that is applied once a month to help prevent fleas and ticks. It is a liquid product applied topically to the skin between the shoulder blades.

Grooming

Grooming is also a part of good puppy care. All pets need some degree of grooming. It is an important part of taking care of your new puppy. By starting to brush and bath your puppy while they are young, they will grow accustomed to the contact as they grow up.

Exercise and Training

It is important for you to provide plenty of space for your puppy to run and exercise. Also, now is the right time to begin training your puppy to help avoid unwanted behaviors. Also be sure to avoid taking your puppy to dog parks until after they have had their full series of vaccines.

If you take the time to learn about proper puppy care, you soon will have a healthy happy dog. Take the time to ask lots of question when you see your Veterinarian. They are the best source for puppy care and health information.

By: Chris Suckow

About the Author:

Debt Consolidation

Please keep in mind that these phases of your puppies growth are very basic generalizations, different dog breeds will progress at their own natural pace.

Please do not assume that any instructional article or book contains the exact time frames and milestones of your pets development. Like you, like people, your dog is also unique.

The Afterbirth Phase: 0 - 4 Weeks Old

Oh, its so exciting, you have a new puppy. Your puppies eyes will start to open, and you will watch them begin to respond to sounds, light and movement within their new environment. They begin trying to ‘learn their legs’, how to move around. They start bonding with their mother and other puppymates, while becoming accustomed to their litter box. As much as you want to pick them up, cuddle them and take them around the house with you, its pretty important for the first month plus, to leave with them with their mother. You will have years and years to spend with them. This is a good time to start learning patience with your new doggie, your going to need it.

Around the third to fourth week you will really begin to notice your puppies senses will start to go beyond their litter box and become more alert to a wider environment. They really begin to recognize things and faces, especially yours, as well as other family members. They are starting to learn and develop their own dog sense during this time.

It is important to not have any unusually loud noises, unnecessary excitements, such as arguments, or any very rapid changes around your puppy. Your puppies development is very sensitive at this time. While you should not walk around on your tiptoes, talk in a whisper or avoid playing music or TV, as they need to become accustomed to the regular sounds of your household, you should be aware that their development and doggie personality can be negatively impacted if placed under undo stress.

The Doggie Socialization Phase: 4 to 8 Weeks

Around this time frame the mother will begin weaning her puppies and teaching them dog pack discipline. They will start learning the fundamentals of doggie pack socialization. They begin to understand that mom is not just there to take care of their hunger, but that she is the leader of the pack.

As Mom weans them you can gradually begin to start gradually feeding them. Ease them in to puppy dog food slowly, their systems need time to adjust.

During this period you can begin to handle your puppy daily, but even though you are still excited at this time, and want to cuddle them, they should not be separated more than 15 minutes daily from the litter. They are still learning doggie socialization, how to play with their mates, how to bite in a playful way and general puppy mannerisms.

If you want your puppy to grow up into a well adjusted dog, and who doesn’t, it is very important to leave your puppy with its mom and litter mates for at least two months and if possible, a bit longer. There have been studies showing that puppies which have been removed from the litter prematurely tend to be more nervous, have a tendency to bite and bark more frequently, as well as having a little more difficult time being trained, compared to puppies that were able to mature properly within the litter.

Fear not, Little Doggie Phase Weeks 9 -12

Your may have to re-experience many things you thought you and your puppy has, been there - done that, lets move on to the next phase. And its up to you to re-adjust. While your dog is quite capable of learning very quickly, many dogs become very afraid of the very things that just seemed normal not so long ago. It seems like your taking a step backwards, so it is important that you take this in stride and make sure not to over-discipline your doggie.

There will be housebreaking boo-boos and play fighting that can get taken too far. But on the other side, your housebreaking training will become easier as your puppy is learning to control their bowel and bladder movements as well feeling more relaxed and being able to sleep through the night.

This is also a good time to begin leash training and the teaching of basic commands, sit, stay, down,come, etc., which will become reinforced behaviors through your positive responses. How you teach and respond to your puppy will influence their behavior in the years to come.

The Terrible Twos Phase 3 - 6 Months Old

Just as human babies, toddlers, are often renowned for going through what is called the ‘terrible twos, your puppy will also begin to assert their independence. By now you have just spent quite a bit of time on their training, dedicated hours towards bonding and now, again, you will have to readjust.

Depending on their nature, your puppy will test the limits and try to assert their dominance over your commands and authority. It may appear that their natural urge to please you has all but disappeared. Just like that, you are ignored. Now is the time for a patient, yet firm hand. Let them know you are the leader of the pack and continue with a stronger reinforcement of training and commands. Another technique is to play hard to get, ignore them for a few minutes, if they do not expand to your instructions.

It is not only their mental dominance trait that is occurring, for bigger dogs they start to feel their own strength and will want to challenge you. While you might be playing at wrestling or tug of war, they may be actually testing too see who is stronger. Even if you ‘win’ the contest, they may perceive that its permitted to ‘fight’ challenge you. Watch for this type of challenge carefully, and if you feel like this can become a serious situation, for the time being, stop these kinds of activities. Remember though, each dog is individual and testing their boundaries is natural, so often times these kinds of activities are them just being playful.

Unless your doggie is in a confined area, now is not the time to let them off the leash. Too many horror stories of young dogs just taking off have unfortunately lead to their own injuries and even death.

Also keep in mind that your dog is going through very rapid physical and chemical changes, their ‘teenage’ hormones will be raging. There are both pros and cons to having your doggie spayed or neutered and you will have to do some research to conclude what will be best for both you and your pet.

They will be experiencing a painful teething cycle, and will need plenty of things to chew on. So be prepared with things like frozen dog bones and other recommended items or face the prospect of having some of your valuables chewed up.

During this phase your doggie may come across as a brat, so make sure you keep as much a check on yourself as you do on your pet.

The Almost Grown Up, but Not Just Yet Phase 6 - 18 Months

Your dog is just bursting to the seams with energy and looks like a full grown adult - dog, but remember that they have not completely developed. They still have many experiences and activities they will need to learn from. And you can help them.

Encourage them to meet other people and let them interact with other dogs in a non-aggressive manner. This phase is a good time to start with their advanced training in an activity you would like to interest them in.

If you have been patient and yet firm with your puppy, you will now be able to experience many golden years with your new companion.

By: Billy Ojai

About the Author:

Cancer Mesothelioma

This article explains in plain English the fastest way to stop your puppy dog biting at your clothing, hands or other body parts. If you have “tried everything” or simply have no idea what to do, the answers are all here and made easy. Methods are humane and pet-friendly, utilizing positive reinforcement and ‘time-outs’ instead of spanking or scolding.

All puppies will bite and chew your body parts or clothing. It is just what puppies do. Their sharp, needle-like teeth can cause quite a lot of pain, and clothing can easily be damaged. It makes sense that we want to teach puppy that this is unacceptable as quickly as possible. What’s more, if puppies are allowed to continue this behavior, by the time they are adolescents or adults they could cause some serious damage!

That’s not to say that having a puppy’s mouth on you is necessarily a ‘bad’ thing. Puppies need to learn what we call ‘bite inhibition’, which is a soft, inhibited bite. Why? All dogs will bite under certain circumstances, particularly if taken by surprise. The dog that learns bite inhibition can bite without causing any real damage.

First, some theory. Don’t worry, it’s not long and boring!

If you have read my earlier article “Secrets of Dog Training Professionals - Operant Conditioning” then you will be familiar with the term ‘Negative Punishment’. Sounds awful, doesn’t it? But don’t worry, Negative Punishment simply means that behavior is decreased because we took something away as a consequence of that behavior.

A ‘time out’ is a Negative Punisher when the target behavior is decreased. Time outs are one of the most humane and pet-friendly punishments we can use, when used with thought and care.

Puppies bite at our hands and clothing because that is the way that puppies like to play. It is fun, and they enjoy our attention. They particularly like it if we try to fight them off of us. Have you ever seen two or more puppies playing? They like to fight each other with their mouths and paws.

Normally, other puppies teach our puppy not to bite too hard by squealing in pain. When we take our puppy from the litter, these other puppies aren’t around to teach proper bite inhibition any more. Some people advise trying to emulate a ‘puppy squeal’ to discourage biting too hard.

I don’t know why, but people just don’t seem to be very convincing with their squeals, so I don’t recommend it as a training technique. What’s more, some puppies seem to enjoy it when their human squeals and will get more excited, resulting in more biting. This is obviously not what we want puppy to do! If you can squeal and your puppy immediately stops biting, then this is an acceptable technique. Monitor the behavior long-term, though, to make sure biting too hard is decreasing.

A different, yet highly effective aproach is to say ‘ouch’ in a neutral tone of voice (not loud, not high-pitched and not angry) then walk out of the room, shutting the door behind you for 30 seconds. This marks the exact behavior you are trying to punish, then gives a time-out as a consequence.

It may take puppy a little while to figure out the link between his biting and the time-out, but the marker will make it clearer. It is important to say ‘ouch’ in a neutral tone of voice, and say it exactly at the moment that puppy bites too hard.

Notice that I said “exactly at the moment that puppy bites too hard”? We don’t want to discourage young puppies from biting altogether, this would be bite prohibition. We want to teach puppies to inhibit their bite.

Time-outs should not be excessive. A long time-out can be stressful and lead to other unwanted behaviors. 30 seconds is more than enough and seems to be quite effective. Don’t look back at puppy or try to push puppy away when you say ‘ouch’. Simply get up and leave, closing the door behind you.

If you have family or friends in the room then it might be easier to lead puppy out of the room and shut him out for his time-out. However, this doesn’t seem to be as effective to me.

Remember, it is only punishment if the behavior decreases. Continuing with a punishment which is unclear or ineffective is a waste of time and borders on abuse (although, it would be hard to do damage with a 30 second time-out). Consider your timing, consistency and whether or not there is anyone else in puppy’s life who is not following through with this protocol consistently. It is important that you explain the rules to anyone who plays with puppy.

If all else fails, seek professional advice. Most vet clinics are now offering puppy kinder classes using humane and pet-friendly techniques.

By: Aidan Bindoff

About the Author:

Loan consolidation

Puppy separation anxiety is a very common condition. It affects many dogs that are left home alone for an extended period of time. The good news is, it’s fairly easy to treat and get rid of.

Some of the common behaviors associated with separation anxiety are: defecation and urination in inappropriate places, whining, destructive behavior and excessive barking. Even depression and hyperactivity could be symptoms of separation anxiety in puppy. Of course, these behaviors could also be symptoms of other problems.

Sometimes, without even realizing it, we contribute to the problem and make the condition even more pronounced.

Dealing With Puppy Separation Anxiety

There are many ways to deal with dog separation anxiety but, in short, your 2 main goals are:

Make your puppy enjoy the time he is alone (well, maybe “enjoy” is a bad word in this case. “Tolerate” is probably a better choice).
Keep him occupied while he is alone.

Here are some tips you can use to eliminate separation anxiety in puppy…

You need to teach your puppy to be alone. Start while he is still young. Proceed slowly at first - short training sessions not longer than 5 to 10 minutes is a good start.
There is no need for long, emotional goodbyes. If you need to leave, just do it. By leaving and coming back to reassure your puppy that everything will be OK, he will think that you are rewarding his tantrums. What you are actually doing is encouraging puppy separation anxiety.
Before leaving, exhaust your puppy by engaging him in some tiring activity. Chances are, after you leave, he will fall asleep.
Here is one of the easiest to implement tips for dealing with puppy separation anxiety… Before leaving, leave a radio on. It may not seem like a lot, but the sound of voices will reassure your puppy.
Find something exciting for your puppy to do while he is alone. The easiest way to do it is to buy him couple of good chew toys. There are toys available that are made of tough rubber that you can stuff with food. They will keep your puppy or an adult dog busy for a very long time.

Believe it or not, medications are also available to treat puppy separation anxiety. They can be purchased by prescription only and should be used only in extreme cases, if nothing else helps.

My opinion about using drugs to treat dog separation anxiety? I am not a big fan but like I said earlier, medications should be used only if nothing else works. If this applies to you, discuss it with your veterinarian.

From my experience, puppy separation anxiety is not difficult to prevent. But start early - like any other negative behavior, it’s a lot easier to prevent it from developing into a habit than to try to change it after it becomes a way of life. Good luck!

By: Ed Nodelman

About the Author:

Toddlers

So, you’ve finally gone out and gotten that cute little puppy you always wanted. You have had some success training Fido to sit on command and the housebreaking process is going great, however, your cute little puppy just won’t stop barking! Here are five common reasons why a puppy barks and some simple tips to help you deal with them.

1. Boredom - A puppy gets bored just like people do and when this happens, they frequently deal with it by barking. Make sure you play with your puppy every day and keep him as active as possible. Tying him up in the backyard and leaving him there by himself for hours on end is not the way to treat your puppy. Frequent interaction between you and your new best friend is the key to both reduced barking and ultimate happiness.

2. Lack of Exercise - Your new puppy needs plenty of exercise. You’ll be amazed at the wonders a long walk or a game of fetch will have on your puppy’s behavior.

3. Lack of Attention - This is a key reason why a puppy barks. A puppy needs your love and attention. If you make sure to spend plenty of quality time with your new puppy, the barking will stop. Everybody is busy these days but it’s extremely important for you to carve out some time every day to spend with your dog. It will pay huge dividends in the short term and in the long term.

4. Fear - Yes, puppies do have fears. Some are afraid of the vacuum cleaner while others fear thunderstorms. Comfort your puppy when she seems afraid and let her know that everything is okay. They are no different than children when it comes to their need for comforting as they start out their new life with you.

5. Defending Territory - A puppy will establish an area in and around your home that makes up his territory. If individuals or other animals enter this area, your puppy will bark to protect him and you. To help control this type of barking, introduce your puppy early on to people who frequently enter your home or yard, like the mail carrier. Familiarizing your puppy with these individuals will help minimize the barking and make everybody feel more comfortable.

Follow these five simple tips and that barking problem will be a thing of the past!

By: Bryan Gillis

About the Author:

Copyright Lawyer

Deworming your puppy is a critical part of his puppy care. 98% of all puppies are born with worms that they contracted before they were born from their mother.

There are many different species of worms which can affect your puppy’s growth and development. These worms are intestinal parasites, and contrary to popular belief, you probably won’t see them in the puppy’s stool unless they have a severe infestation.

The most common type of worm found in puppies are roundworms. Roundworms, as you might expect, are round, and a common description is spaghetti-like. These ascarids are very common in nature and can survive outside a host in a cyst stage for a long time. Grassy areas are common places to find any number of parasitic cysts.

Tapeworms are among the most difficult to get rid of. They are a flat, segmented worm.
The head of the tapeworm burrows into the intestine wall and segments break off and are expelled with the feces. You may see wriggling rice-like segments in the stool or dry sawdust-like flakes stuck in the coat around the puppy’s anus. Each segment contains thousands of eggs and ingestion will cause a recurrent infestation.

Fleas are the vector for the tapeworm. They carry the tapeworm from one host to the next. When an animal bites a flea, the tapeworm finds it’s way to the digestive tract where it sets up camp. Tapeworms can be very difficult to get rid of. Dislodging the head can require multiple de-worming attempts. If you do not kill the worm at the source, it can and will regenerate from the head.

There are actually very few medications that work against tapeworms. Many of which can be very hard on the puppy. Whichever medication you choose, you should be sure to consult your veterinarian before you use it. Drontal is the best general de-wormer on the market today. It is a wide spectrum de-wormer and does get tapes, most do not. If your puppy definitely has tapes, it is a good idea to follow up with a species specific dewormer. That is, one that just gets tapes.

When de-worming your puppy, you need to repeat it at least twice, three times is better still. The procedure needs to be done at two week intervals. To follow the life-cycle of the parasite. Most eggs will hatch in that two weeks. The first medication kills anything that is its adult stage, the follow up treatments kill anything that has hatched in the mean time. You can see why it may be advisable to repeat it a third time, just in case any residual eggs had yet to hatch or, any remaining adults laid new eggs.

It is a good idea to follow the final worming with a microscopic fecal exam done at your vet’s office a couple weeks after the final de-worming. Just to make sure no eggs are present. Your vet will need a very fresh fecal sample. Usually no more than an hour old.

Intestinal parasites can cause many problems for the puppy. They can become malnourished, despite how much they eat. If they are always sharing their nutrition with their unwelcome companions they won’t grow well. They will be more susceptible to disease despite vaccines. They may have chronic diarrhea and vomiting and never reach their standard body weight or muscle mass.

Some species of intestinal parasites are transmissible to humans. Mainly children who have a less developed immune system and are more likely to be in the vicinity of the worms or eggs. Round worms especially can infect young children. Children inadvertently put their hands in their mouth or roll around in the grass with the puppy. It is possible, though less likely to contract other species of worms as well.

By: Laura Anderson

About the Author:

Spa Resorts